Warping the loom

I have (or my husband has created) sectional beams on all my looms.  Makes the most sense for me, I always put on enough yarn for several of whatever I’m making. I have a small (20″) Harrisville 4 harness from which we’ve removed 2 of the harnesses/treadles. Since I’m doing plain weave, why confuse people with extra harnesses when I’m demonstrating. I can put this into my Caravan  plus all my show setup/merchandise. 

I  rarely change the weaving width or sett on my looms, so I also rarely have to rethread the heddles and reed. When finishing up a warp I don’t cut off the last weaving; I leave all the yarn threaded through to the warp beam, just disengage it by section.  This leaves me free to rewarp the loom.  I then tie each of the new warp threads in order to the old warp and when all yarns are tied on – advance the warp through the heddles and reed (very carefully – watch those knots!)  No mistakes on threading or sleying!!! Hooray.

Warping the loom

You can see the portable shelves Ed made from wire closet shelving.  These hold the cones of yarn, keep them separated, and line them up before they go through the sectional tensioner. You can see the knotted ends of the previous warp sections showing (but out of the way from the new warp) under the warp beam.

Tying the new warp ends to the old warp.

It’s very important to keep all threads under control! Masking tape is very useful. I sometimes enclose the warp with tape near where I’ll cut it to keep the cut ends from disappearing into the wound-on warp. Of course I always tape down the threads before cutting them.

Naturally if you are changing the draft, sett, or width of weaving this technique will not work.

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